With Atelier Materi’s pared-down range and architecturally minimalist bottles, designer Véronique Le Bihan celebrates the discreet charm of traditional luxury.
Jovoy Paris, on the French capital’s rue de Castiglione, curates a multitude of niche brands, both big and small. These scents are often exclusive to the store. This year, the boutique is cementing its vocation as an emerging brand showcase by highlighting a selection of French companies launched in 2020. Among them, and one of the retailer's favorites, is Atelier Materi. The collection of just five fragrances are housed in bottles topped with a sculptural mineral cap with a golden patina. These one-off pieces are entirely handmade by a craftsman in Brittany from poured concrete.
The translucent, deep blue lacquered 100ml bottles from Heinz Glas are each stamped with the arms of Atelier Materi (JPM Décor). The pumps and collars are from Coster and the labels in FSC-certified natural white paper—with hot stamping and embossed coat of arms—are from Artconvert (monochrome screen printing from Atelier Darmon). The fragrances are presented in hinged boxes lined with Fedrigoni paper (also FSC-certified and dyed with natural pigments). Encased in a sleeve, they feature touches of gold hot stamping and hallmark embossing (Verpack).
Le Bihan explains that for each fragrance, she attempted to explore every facet of a given raw material down to its slightest nuances: Timut pepper on a background of cedar, vetiver and mate for Poivre Pomelo; ambrette seed enhanced with mandarin and ginger for Peau d'ambrette; sandalwood set with bergamot, cardamom, jasmine and tonka bean for Santal Blond; iris blended with mandarin petitgrain and allspice for Cuir d'Iris and, finally, white cocoa mixed with rum, immortal Indian jasmine and blond tobacco for Cacao Porcelana.
While these may be unisex fragrances, the entire creative aspect of the project, from artistic direction to packaging, is decidedly feminine. With the guiding principles of "discreet luxury, respectful of the rhythms of man and nature, and of artisanal know-how", Le Bihan has favored local sourcing.
Bottle/label decorationJPM Décor/Atelier Darmon