In addition to doubling its innovation budget this year, French beauty supplier Cosmogen has made organizational changes aimed at boosting new product development. These include recentering on its core business* of applicator expertise and creating an Innovation & Development department that brings together its marketing and engineering teams to work on technical innovations that better respond to market needs.
“Covid has strongly accelerated our internal transformation,” affirms Cosmogen CEO Priscille Caucé. While the supplier does not provide figures (it is owned by an investment fund) it confirms the “ratio of investment to turnover is high”. Areas of focus include “Safe Contact”, a label it created earlier this year at the height of the coronavirus pandemic, as well as antibacterial options.
CSR is also a driver in new product development, including the use of greener materials. “It’s not about plastic bashing,” cautions Caucé; “rather we believe that there are myriad ways to promote plastic in a sustainable manner, such as the use of PCR and bioplastics.”
Cosmogen claims that its innovations are in keeping with at least one of the five R’s; Reduce, Reuse, Refill, Recycle, Renew, and aims to go beyond this. Its Squeeze’N and Tense ranges are now refillable, for example, with biobased and PCR options available, and both the tubes and caps are recyclable.
We highlight several recent launches unveiled this week and which center on three areas: Sustainable Beauty, Safe Beauty and Skin Experts.
Reducing the environmental impact of makeup brushes is a focus for the supplier, which has implemented a life cycle analysis tool for brushes allowing it to assess the environmental impact of each improvement made to the design across 15 indicators; the results are comparable to that of collaborative open-source tool SPICE, which attributes an overall score. Cosmogen’s r-BRUSH for makeup integrates 30% rPET in its synthetic fiber tuft, which creates a slightly more rigid brush to offer excellent powder pick-up and application. The ferrule has been removed from the FSC-certified beech wood handle to cut down on the use of materials and glue.
Cosmogen also unveiled what it describes as the first airless pump bottle with a reusable brush. Dubbed Tint’N Reuse, it is designed to allow the user to keep the brush and replace the bottle (the bottle refill is available in PCR). The formula is directly dispensed on the patented drop-shaped kabuki brush, thus avoiding finger contact. The brush can be removed and cleaned after use. Tint’N Reuse is suitable for highlighter, blush, BB cream and foundation, as well as gel and cream/mask formulas.
Tapping into consumer demand for antibacterial offerings in light of the current pandemic, Cosmogen has developed a set of six “vegan” makeup brushes containing an anti-bacterial surface treatment said to be effective against three bacteria, including Staphylococcus aureus. Similarly, Cosmogen has integrated the antibacterial fiber into its Squeeze’N Tint offering, with removeable applicator tip. Cosmogen confirmed that its 2018 partnership with Pylote has come to an end and that it is no longer using the company’s antibacterial technology.
Inspired by cosmetic surgery and originally slated for targeted treatments, such as wrinkle fillers, Cosmogen’s Needle Tube features an aluminum applicator for precise application. It is said to be particularly suited for products addressing “maskne”, or skin imperfections caused by wearing protective masks. The tube is available in PCR, and a version with removable applicator will launch shortly.
*Cosmogen has four business segments: packaging with applicators, brushes, accessories and dispensing (the latter thanks to the integration of PYC this year).