MS Beautilab, created from the recent merger of Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac, focuses on "clean" cosmetics, from the formula to the pack.
Clean beauty, natural cosmetics, organic cosmetics... Behind these three terms that are not always clearly defined, there is a common desire to commit to cosmetics that are more respectful of human health and the environment. "The market will evolve through these categories. The new consumer will consume less but better, in a more thoughtful way, and this will be even more true following the coronavirus pandemic," says MS Beautilab marketing manager Nathalie Dessirier.
This trend is reflected in shorter ingredient lists, the elimination of controversial substances and in eco-designed packaging. MS Beautilab is setting an example with IncrediGreen Lashes, a mascara that is clean, vegan 99.7% natural and Cosmos-certified. Manufactured by Geka, its packaging is made of PCR plastics, polyethylene based on mainly organic sugar cane, and, for the brush fibers, a derivative of the castor oil plant.
Changing formulas without impairing their qualities is a complex challenge that can involve a change in application gestures. MS Beautilab has experimented with this for a new, long-lasting foundation with a high percentage of natural ingredients thanks to the choice of an oil-in-water (and not water-in-oil) emulsion. This texture absorbs more quickly into the skin—what is known as a shorter playtime—and it is recommend to apply it with a brush or blender in order to maintain the sensory aspect.
Progress is accelerating, however, and the company is planning a new natural foundation with a traditional emulsion and playtime for the end of the year. "In the organic segment, the switch is easier to make for mascara and foundation than it is for lipstick and gloss, so we are working on these challenging formulas," comments Dessirier. As for the packaging, "you have to think differently," she says. “We need less packaging, and not just the refill systems that already exist. We're also working with suppliers on concepts for products without packaging.” Add upcycling to the mix, and this means that there is a huge amount of work to be done.