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Inside Dries Van Noten's refillable fragrances & lipsticks

Katie Nichol

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Inside Dries Van Noten's refillable fragrances & lipsticks

Dries Van Noten’s first beauty collection embodies the Belgian fashion designer’s penchant for unlikely combinations. Created with majority shareholder Puig, the refillable fragrance packaging juxtaposes glass with wood, ceramic, plastic or aluminum, while molded pulp is used for the outer packs.

The inaugural beauty collection from fashion designer Dries Van Noten consists of 10 "genderless" fragrances and 30 lipsticks, with packaging that expresses the designer’s flair for contrasting prints, textures and materials. 

Eight of the bespoke fragrance bottles (Stöelzle Masnières Parfumerie) are lacquered in different colors, while two (Santal Greenery and Raving Rose) feature the glassmaker’s Quali Glass Coat decoration process, a powder coating with low environmental impact. The bottom portion of each flacon has a covering, made either of PEFC-certified wood (Pujolasos), hand-painted porcelain (Revol), plastic (Hertus) or aluminum (TNT Global Manufacturing). Three aluminum cases with plastic inserts were developed, variously decorated using a red lacquer, aluminum stamping, and a motif obtained through heat transfer labels. On account of the different material constraints, Stöelzle devised specific gluing techniques to attach each case to the flacon.

The flacons’ single-piece galvanized zamak cap (TNT Global Manufacturing) with plastic insert sports an oxidized effect, which is also replicated on the collar. Dries Van Noten’s fragrances are refillable; a key provided with the refill format is used to unscrew the pump, and the bottle is refilled using a funnel.

Drawstring pouches inspired by the fabrics from the brand’s pret-à-porter clothing collections come with the fragrance flacons. James Cropper's COLOURFORM – the molded-fiber packaging company behind Ruinart’s Second Skin Packaging – created the bespoke, clamshell secondary packaging. The thermoformed, molded fiber pack uses wood fibers from sustainably managed forests. 

Each of the 10 eaux de parfum – whose formulas are made with a minimum of 85% natural origin ingredients, according to the brand – were created by perfumers at fragrance houses Givaudan, IFF and Firmenich. They include Rock the Myrrh (pictured above), which sports a ceramic case. The scent was created by Amélie Jacquin (Givaudan) and blends notes of cypress, pink pepper, myrrh and patchouli. 

Refillable lipsticks

Dries Van Noten has also launched a line of refillable lipsticks, whose casing (PVL Beauté) comprises eight elements. The PBT top and base are decorated to various effect depending on the lipstick; a malachite print combined with a black and red PU coating, for example, or a blue and white porcelain-print base juxtaposed with an orange cap. 

Two metallized PBT rings visually define where the base meets the cap, while circular zamak lozenges adorn the cap and base. Galvanized in an aged-gold with polished effect, they are engraved with the Dries Van Noten brand logo. For supplier PVL Beauté, the challenge lay in mixing the different materials and techniques. The lipstick mechanism (Albéa) is sheathed in an aluminum cover from top to bottom, meaning the consumer cannot use it if it is not inserted in the lipstick base.

Dries Van Noten’s fragrances retail at €220 for 100ml (€240 for the scents with ceramic case) and €260 for the 200ml refill, while the refillable lipstick costs €34 and its refill, €35.

Lipstick

Component

Mechanism Albéa

Component

CasePVL Beauté

Fragrance

Component

Bottle/bottle decorationStöelzle Masnières Parfumerie

Component

Gluing of caseStöelzle Masnières Parfumerie

Component

CaseRevol, Pujolasos, Hertus, TNT Global Manufacturing

Component

Cap/collarTNT Global Manufacturing

Component

PumpSilgan Dispensing Systems

Component

Secondary packagingJames Cropper COLOURFORM

Component

Screw-in pump collar/insert/collarAlbéa

Component

PerfumersLouise Turner, Daniela Andrier, Amélie Jacquin, Nisrine Grillie, Quentin Bisch (Givaudan)

Component

Perfumers Fanny Bal, Nicolas Beaulieu (IFF)

Component

PerfumersDaphné Bugey, Marie Salamagne, Nicolas Bonneville (Firmenich)

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